Greece 2014 – Day 22 – Athens

Back again in Athens. It’s our last day of the trip and so we climbed up to the Acropolis to take in the Parthenon once again.

The extensive multi-year restoration looks to be nearing its final stages.  Practically the entire structure has been taken apart and put back together to replace failing restoration attempts from the early 20th century.  It’s looking great!

As the sun set we headed over the the neighboring Filopappos Hill to catch the last light before retiring early for the flight home.  We had a great trip!


Greece 2014 – Day 21 – Heraklion

Making our way back from Matala to Heraklion we stopped to visit the most famous of Minoan palaces, Knossos (~3000 – 1500 BC).  

Controversially excavated and restored in the early 20th century by Sir Arthur Evans the site offers a representation of how the palace, with its multiple stories, might have looked in its heyday.  Using concrete instead of wood, Evans recreated stairs and pillars and linked together the various levels of the ruins in 3D.  One could only imagine such a representation at Pheastos with its mostly 2D remnants.  For me, it works, though I am glad I saw both representations of a Minoan palace, Knossos and Pheastos.

Once settled back in Heraklion, we returned to our favorite restaurant for our final Cretan meal.

Greece 2014 – Day 20 – Matala

Like most of Crete, the valley that resides to the north of Matala is historically rich and ancient.  The earliest detectable inhabitants date to 7000 BC.  We choose to visit these two very different and important archeological sites this day, Gortyn and Pheastos.

Gortyn is as ancient as any city in Crete, but is most famous for the Gortyn law code that was etched into stone in the 6th century BC and remains on display in the later remains of a Roman Odeon.  It is the oldest and most complete example of a code of ancient Greek law.  The code hints of what Minoan society must have been like, one where equality between men and women was greater than probably any civilization since.  Much greater than during the Golden Age of Athens.  Check it out:


Pheastos is a well preserved ancient Minoan palace that provides a glimpse into how these cities were laid out and used (~3000 to 1500 BC).   The Minoan palaces dot the Cretan landscape but there are a handful that are the largest and best understood.  While they all are slightly different, key elements are common to all, like a main courtyard (shown below).  Pheastos is a great example for appreciating these similarities in layout.

Greece 2014 – Day 19 – Matala

Our final resting spot before starting the long journey back home was to be Matala, an infamous town back in the 60’s, known as a hippy hangout full of free love and free rent living in rock caves along the cliffs.  No doubt loads of fun! Of course the hippies were not the first to live like this.  The ancients were well ahead of them.

We spent our first day enjoying the slightly touristy beach town and enjoyed a fab lunch looking over the water.  Same itinerary, different location.

Greece 2014 – Day 18 – Loutro

No agenda really …. Walk, swim, repeat. The water is still warm in October and the sun is not too hot.

A curious phenomenon occurs along the coast of much of southern Crete. Spring water runs through the porous limestone mountains and exits along the waters edge. Often a layer of cold, sweet water forms atop the more dense salt water. You can feel it exit through the beach pebbles with your toes. Contrary to expectations, the water warms as you swim away from the beach where the water is better mixed.

Greece 2014 – Day 16 – Loutro

The Samaria gorge resides within the Cretan White Mountains, a landscape that remains very difficult to traverse, even on foot.  It is within the White Mountains that over the centuries enclaves of Cretans outlasted their intruders and carved out life on their terms.

We were no exception.  To move 25 miles east along the southern coast of Crete we had to drive 100 miles in total to the north coast, then east, then back south, around the White Mountains, until we arrived to our next destination, Loutro.

We were attracted to Loutro for peace, quiet and swimming, facilitated by the fact that you can arrive there only by ferry, boat or foot.  We chose foot, driving as close as we could, and walking the remaining 30 minutes.

This video shows a portion of our final 5 miles or so to our walking point of departure.  I love the freedom of exploring by car and this vignette is playful example of unplanned adventure to be had in unknown lands.

Greece 2014 – Day 15 – Sougia

One firm destination on this trip was the Samaria gorge.  We caught the 7 am bus to the top and began our ~10 mile hike back down to the water at about 9 am.   The hike is beautiful and highly recommended, in spite of the high foot traffic, and took us just over 7 hours.  The gorge just goes on and on.  A dip in the sea followed by calamari and wine was never better received.  The ferry took us back to our starting point.  Mission happily accomplished!


Greece 2014 – Day 13 – Sougia


We were looking for a pleasant seaside village to spell us from driving for a few days and one that doubled as a good launch pad for the Samaria gorge hike.  Sougia fit the bill!


On arrival, after lunch, of course, our first venture was to hike over the hill to visit the ancient Greek ruin of Lissos.


Aside from a Roman mosaic floor, there is not a lot of structural antiquity to see at Lissos, but there is a lot to imagine of this city of 1000 years or more  (it was abandoned in late antiquity).  The famous and ancient spring still provides refreshing liquid for parched throats.  Building stones dot the landscape and pottery shards litter the ground.  Unfortunately we had too little time to explore deeply before our arranged boat ride back arrived!  I would like the chance to visit again.